Originally published online by Wylde Magazine.
It seems all Sadie Williams needed to begin building an Autumn/Winter 2016 collection was an old photograph of her parents on a skiing holiday as youth, inspiring a collection filled with exciting vintage nuances and a pair of leather trousers referencing those worn by her father in his younger days. This season’s offerings, titled “Off Piste,” may have started with a trip to the past, but what Williams presented during London Fashion Week was anything but a collection of tired vintage doppelgangers.
A.F. Vandevorst marked its London debut with an Autumn/Winter 2016 collection made up entirely of contrasting themes – formal leisure, masculine femininity and understandable confusion. At first, An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx’s seasonal offerings seemed to be a bold hodgepodge of gimmicks (including belts wrapped around the models’ faces and ill-placed fishnet stockings), but this would later evolve from questionable styling choices and into the designers’ personification and embodiment of the woman on the go.
Self-Portrait’s Autumn/Winter 2016 collection paraded a colour palette of Francis Bacon-inspired hues along a classically romantic lineup of modern guipure lace dresses and separates — a testament to the Malaysian-born Han Chong’s ability to weave unexpected elements with accessible designs. Always one to create an extra-special dress destined to grace the Red Carpet, the Central Saint Martins alumnus rolled out this season’s offerings with something we haven’t really seen in the label’s lifespan so far — attitude.
Building on the House’s adoration for delicate femininity, decadent elegance and masterly craftsmanship, Ralph & Russo’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection brings a blend of the tradition and the modern to the forefront of the couture season, one that is regal and yet carefree.
Originally published in Harper’s Bazaar Malaysia February 2016.