While Wes Gordon may have presented his first collection at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2010, there’s quite a lot that can be said about the “young” designer who is taking the industry by storm. For Gordon, it is certainly his consistency.
Having spent time under the wings of Oscar de la Renta and Tom Ford, Gordon’s eponymous label continues to reflect the skills he honed at such labels, giving way to a spectacular understanding of how to fuse classic techniques with sophisticated designs.
This season, he maintains the idea of consistency with the same 1990s-inspired aesthetics he has been incorporating throughout his past collections, and with the fine quality fabrics and modern, minimalist tailoring he’s now synonymous with. But while the collection may have started off strong with a long, tailored coat paired over a rib-knit top and skirt combo, the second half of the lineup explored an entirely different route.
Fun and flirtatious are both excellent adjectives used to describe Ryan Lo’s fall-winter collection in his debut show at London Fashion Week. With equal parts youthfulness and the flamboyant styles we so eagerly anticipate from the traditionally eccentric London fashion scene, Lo’s memorable lineup fused jacquard and brocade with fur and fringe.
But what he managed to do most of all was evoke a spectacular spirit of frivolous fashion with instant wearability. And with that in mind, Ryan Lo transformed a springtime essential into a fall staple: whether a skirt with lace and fringe, or crocheted florals, they’re certainly the new must-have item.
For her first pre-fall appearance, Rosetta Getty further developed the relaxed, sophisticated aesthetics of her eponymous label into cool and classic vibes, drawing on inspirations from architect Louis Kahn and artist Louise Bourgeois with a salute to the simplicity and clean lines of past American sportswear. Evoking the calm beauty and dimensional intrigue of the said inspirations, Getty delivered her fourth collection with understood prowess and poise.
Going beyond season-based outerwear and trousers, this pre-collection seemed to be built around the notion of year-round appeal, with architectural slits and cutouts reappearing throughout the lineup. One of the warmest moments appeared in the fall-ready cashmere-and-wool cardigan draped loosely over a striped blouse and wrap skirt with cutout hemline.
Designer Adam Lippes has tapped into the underlying current of architectural influence this season for a Pre-Fall 2015 collection exuding editorial value and season-neutral timelessness. And while his designs might have emerged from the modern works of Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, Lippes pre-collection reflects his own classic, yet relaxed, elegance, along with a remarkably fresh and youthful Asian influence.
Through employing his signature tailoring and keen eye for refined fabrics, Lippes impeccably elevated a lineup of essentials into crisp sophistication with year-round potential. This season found the designer, who re-launched his eponymous label in 2013, fortifying his American sportswear-lux aesthetics with Kuma’s graphic prowess as fretwork-inspired lace appeared as a re-occurring detail among several garments.
Proenza Schouler’s Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough opted for a more reminiscent Pre-Fall 2015 collection, focusing this season on revisiting a few favorite looks from the past, while introducing new, more experimental ideas. Pre-collections, after all, supply the perfect opportunity for designers to display more creative freedom than with their main season counterparts.
While translating classic American appeal into an overall menswear-inspired lineup, this season emerged full of textured knitwear, wearable argyle options and fluid silhouettes. And although they remained equally chic and refined with an abundance of grays and browns, Proenza Schouler continued to showcase textural innovations – a definite point of continual intrigue when it comes to following this New York-based label.
Alexander Wang took Spring 2015 as his opportunity to break free from the reverent tones of the iconic Cristóbal Balenciaga and previous creative director Nicolas Ghesquière, which he had attentively pursued throughout the collections since his onboarding. This season, however, welcomed in a very Wang-inspired lineup, with a new venue and distinct direction.
Now at Palais de Tokyo in Paris, Wang seemed to infiltrate the vibe with his quintessential athletic and urban influences, from the sleek glass-and-metal runway to the street-ready notes of sportswear. And while I’m a huge fan of Wang’s work, I couldn’t separate myself from the feeling I was looking at his eponymous label. After all, this was Balenciaga… Right?
After last season’s blatant Stars Wars motif, Rodarte’s designers Laura and Kate Mulleavy rebounded with a Spring 2015 collection filled with stunning imagery and an enchanting utilitarian workmanship.
Though underlying themes explored a fantastical underwater life, the true majesty of the season was found in the details; from a crystallized runway to the crystal and sequin embellishments, the true-to-form sister designers are back and have spared no expense in hard work or creativity.
This season marks the first collection The Row has presented since the departure of Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s design director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski last March. As they have since reported the position will not be filled, the label has without doubt recognized a certain path for victory with the evocation of true grace and style for Spring 2015, a collection caught somewhere between organic warmth and subtle elegance.
While every piece was unique and unparalleled, with loose wraps, vibrant colors and a certain palpable gravitas, a distinct charm rebounded within the venue, a raw-furnished fifth-floor warehouse in Soho. Already, this was to be a collection to remember.
Simply Google “Karolyn Pho,” and the search results would be bombarded with paparazzi shots of her and the “celebrity” she once dated. But there’s no chance of that overshadowing her fashion career now, especially as the fifth-season designer once again proved her talents with a remarkable presentation at New York Fashion Week.
Pho’s Spring 2015 collection blurred the lines between masculine and feminine, while showcasing a clean aesthetic that has certainly become a signature look. From mock turtlenecks to racerback tank dresses, this bubbly and talented designer is taking the industry by storm. The subtle reference of a “lost between realities” character further emphasizes her vagabond theme. Even better, The Aspiring Fashionista was able to catch up with Karolyn Pho backstage prior to the show to ask her a few questions, from Spring 2015 inspirations to what her superpower might be.
TAF: What was the inspiration behind your Spring/Summer 2015 collection? KP: The color palette is inspired by South Florida architecture. It’s a lot of pastels mixing matching together with a 60’s vibe. The story is a vagabond, so she is a girl who’s in and out of realities traveling from place to place, not really having a designated home. There’s a carelessness and charm that I’m really drawn to.
What’s the most surprising source of inspiration in your life?
Probably my environment because I’m literally a sponge. So whatever or whomever I am around, I can’t help but to take in their energy or whatever it is emotionally. As much as you are aware of what’s happening, you still get sucked into it without knowing.
What’s your superpower?
My superpower is that I can drink more coffee than anyone in the world, like endless amounts.
Has having dated a celebrity benefit your fashion career in any way?
I don’t think people have really associated the two, which is nice.
Do you have any idols?
I really respect Karl Templer, Karen Kieser, Nicolas Ghesquière and Alexander Wang.
What makes you happy?
My puppy dog Margo, my family and friends, and doing this — being able to show and do what I love every season. It’s the most rewarding thing ever. I love what I do.
Photographed by Dan & Corina Lecca
Production Press & Casting by MAO Public Relations
Make up by Romero Jennings for MAC Cosmetics
Hair by Charlie Price for Scruples Hair Care
Sunglasses by Moscot
Footwear by Dansko
What Joseph Altuzarra does best (and I truly love him for this) is how he meticulously merges modesty and sophistication with unmistakable sex appeal. His Spring 2015 collection expands on these talents by doing just that, this time with traces of a promiscuous purity and an eerie je ne sais quoi.
Perhaps it was the pink gingham skirtsuit, but the collection felt truly wholesome as the first look came out onto the runway. But it was with a second glance this number revealed an inherent Altuzarra touch: an extreme slit worthy of the next Angelina Jolie thigh moment.