For Spring/Summer 2016, the designers at Paris Men’s Fashion Week have combined utilitarian fashion with editorial aesthetics, blending artistic interpretations with sportswear accessibility. I teamed up with London-based fashion illustrator Megan St. Clair Morgan to highlight a few of my favourite collections.
^ Henrik Vibskov
By far one of the better collections this season, Henrik Vibskov’s Spring-Summer 2016 collection fused the perfect amount of editorial creativity with the effortlessness of wearability. Entitled “The Hot Spray Escape,” the designer explored the idea of surviving the harsh climates of winter, of dessert and the extremes in between.
Alongside an art installation consisting of four live performers stretching and flexing, the models appeared on the runway wearing several solid looks for the upcoming season, including oversized bomber jackets, knitwear and high-waist trousers and shorts; all remaining fresh with a colour palette full of contrast: white, black and digital prints of dessert landscapes and canyons.
^ Études Studio
Inspired by the 1975 illustrated book by Swiss artist David Weiss, Études Studio’s Spring-Summer 2016 collection, “Up and Down Town,” revisited the wardrobe of an urban artist, pulling from past and present style influences wandering between “Parisian poetry” and the “New York skate culture” for a fluid approach to streetwear. Flared skater shorts and cropped straight trousers balanced large-scale silkscreen patchworks made in partnership with artists Adrien Horni and Linus Bill that appeared as irregular swatches on suiting and outerwear.
^ Officine Générale
I’ve never quite been a fan of pleated pants, ever. But Officine Générale’s Pierre Mahéo surprised me this season by sending a range of pleasing pleats down the runway; large, exaggerated pleats, balancing the shoulders of the men while softly composing the overall look. Made of fresco wool, linen or cotton, these trousers were allowed to transcend social scenarios, from being paired with fitted blazers for more formal events to the casual rendezvous in jersey T-shirts, for a classically cool attire pulled into the modern man’s wardrobe.
^ Each x Other
The launch of French contemporary label Each x Other’s first men’s collection combined the works of artists Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Robert Montgomery and Blair Chivers for a unique collaborative experience. De Castelbajac contributed his signature colours in a tuxedo and graffiti leather biker jacket, while Montgomery and Chivers played with textures and mirrored surfaces, respectively including tops with the saying “We are not your servants anymore” and aluminum-like leather jackets.
Illustrations by Megan St. Clair Morgan.