It seems all Sadie Williams needed to begin building an Autumn/Winter 2016 collection was an old photograph of her parents on a skiing holiday as youth, inspiring a collection filled with exciting vintage nuances and a pair of leather trousers referencing those worn by her father in his younger days. This season’s offerings, titled “Off Piste,” may have started with a trip to the past, but what Williams presented during London Fashion Week was anything but a collection of tired vintage doppelgangers.
Infusing a sense of nostalgia into every design, Williams reprised her signature ease with metallic fabrics with distinct nods to the slalom style of the 1980s and the traditional tartans and kilts of Scotland: Lurex kilts of red or silver were paired with tight and graphic turtlenecks; a boxy cropped jacket with a pleated skirt in matching silver Lurex; and leather pants in black and silver adorned with geometric patches of red and green metallic leather with even more tight turtlenecks.
If Autumn/Winter 2016 had provided the designer with a spotlight with which to showcase her mastery of mixing fabrics, then it seemed to me that she more than seized the moment with a multi-textural landscape of frosty Lurex and silvery leathers, puffer skirts and statement knitwear. And while onlookers could easily have been absorbed in imagining themselves atop a snow-covered mountain summit, Sadie Williams’ seasonal offerings broke through the haze with a lively and wearable assortment of reimagined staples brought out from her family’s own not-too-distant past.
Photos: Courtesy of Sadie Williams/IPR LONDON.