Since launching in 2012, Gauchère has transitioned from being a label to watch into the consistent tastemaker they are today. With German designer Marie-Christine Statz at the helm, each collection maintains a distinctly fresh-French aesthetic, in a way that’s both natural and effortlessly elegant. For her Spring/Summer 2016 collection, Statz incorporated masculine elements into a range of soft, feminine prints and fabrics for a smart lineup of light-meets-heavy looks with a hint of sportswear.
The mistress of lace, Sharon Wauchob, continues to translate the delicate fabric into an array of intriguing creations that face ageless beauty. Within Wauchob’s fall-winter collection, she presented sparkling numbers with floral patterns and an inconspicuous sex appeal, incorporating a subtle blush pink and silver gray into a lineup of covetable dresses.
If lacework were the only trade at hand, we would certainly remain at awe with Wauchob’s textural workmanship; however, this season she included embroideries so fine as to represent the same patterns found on exotic skins. The same motif was carried over onto ponyskin car coats, encouraging a major fur moment this season, as well as several statement looks to come.
For her first pre-fall appearance, Rosetta Getty further developed the relaxed, sophisticated aesthetics of her eponymous label into cool and classic vibes, drawing on inspirations from architect Louis Kahn and artist Louise Bourgeois with a salute to the simplicity and clean lines of past American sportswear. Evoking the calm beauty and dimensional intrigue of the said inspirations, Getty delivered her fourth collection with understood prowess and poise.
Going beyond season-based outerwear and trousers, this pre-collection seemed to be built around the notion of year-round appeal, with architectural slits and cutouts reappearing throughout the lineup. One of the warmest moments appeared in the fall-ready cashmere-and-wool cardigan draped loosely over a striped blouse and wrap skirt with cutout hemline.
Designer Adam Lippes has tapped into the underlying current of architectural influence this season for a Pre-Fall 2015 collection exuding editorial value and season-neutral timelessness. And while his designs might have emerged from the modern works of Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, Lippes pre-collection reflects his own classic, yet relaxed, elegance, along with a remarkably fresh and youthful Asian influence.
Through employing his signature tailoring and keen eye for refined fabrics, Lippes impeccably elevated a lineup of essentials into crisp sophistication with year-round potential. This season found the designer, who re-launched his eponymous label in 2013, fortifying his American sportswear-lux aesthetics with Kuma’s graphic prowess as fretwork-inspired lace appeared as a re-occurring detail among several garments.
Proenza Schouler’s Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough opted for a more reminiscent Pre-Fall 2015 collection, focusing this season on revisiting a few favorite looks from the past, while introducing new, more experimental ideas. Pre-collections, after all, supply the perfect opportunity for designers to display more creative freedom than with their main season counterparts.
While translating classic American appeal into an overall menswear-inspired lineup, this season emerged full of textured knitwear, wearable argyle options and fluid silhouettes. And although they remained equally chic and refined with an abundance of grays and browns, Proenza Schouler continued to showcase textural innovations – a definite point of continual intrigue when it comes to following this New York-based label.
After last season’s blatant Stars Wars motif, Rodarte’s designers Laura and Kate Mulleavy rebounded with a Spring 2015 collection filled with stunning imagery and an enchanting utilitarian workmanship.
Though underlying themes explored a fantastical underwater life, the true majesty of the season was found in the details; from a crystallized runway to the crystal and sequin embellishments, the true-to-form sister designers are back and have spared no expense in hard work or creativity.
This season marks the first collection The Row has presented since the departure of Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s design director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski last March. As they have since reported the position will not be filled, the label has without doubt recognized a certain path for victory with the evocation of true grace and style for Spring 2015, a collection caught somewhere between organic warmth and subtle elegance.
While every piece was unique and unparalleled, with loose wraps, vibrant colors and a certain palpable gravitas, a distinct charm rebounded within the venue, a raw-furnished fifth-floor warehouse in Soho. Already, this was to be a collection to remember.
Simply Google “Karolyn Pho,” and the search results would be bombarded with paparazzi shots of her and the “celebrity” she once dated. But there’s no chance of that overshadowing her fashion career now, especially as the fifth-season designer once again proved her talents with a remarkable presentation at New York Fashion Week.
Pho’s Spring 2015 collection blurred the lines between masculine and feminine, while showcasing a clean aesthetic that has certainly become a signature look. From mock turtlenecks to racerback tank dresses, this bubbly and talented designer is taking the industry by storm. The subtle reference of a “lost between realities” character further emphasizes her vagabond theme. Even better, The Aspiring Fashionista was able to catch up with Karolyn Pho backstage prior to the show to ask her a few questions, from Spring 2015 inspirations to what her superpower might be.
TAF: What was the inspiration behind your Spring/Summer 2015 collection? KP: The color palette is inspired by South Florida architecture. It’s a lot of pastels mixing matching together with a 60’s vibe. The story is a vagabond, so she is a girl who’s in and out of realities traveling from place to place, not really having a designated home. There’s a carelessness and charm that I’m really drawn to.
What’s the most surprising source of inspiration in your life?
Probably my environment because I’m literally a sponge. So whatever or whomever I am around, I can’t help but to take in their energy or whatever it is emotionally. As much as you are aware of what’s happening, you still get sucked into it without knowing.
What’s your superpower?
My superpower is that I can drink more coffee than anyone in the world, like endless amounts.
Has having dated a celebrity benefit your fashion career in any way?
I don’t think people have really associated the two, which is nice.
Do you have any idols?
I really respect Karl Templer, Karen Kieser, Nicolas Ghesquière and Alexander Wang.
What makes you happy?
My puppy dog Margo, my family and friends, and doing this — being able to show and do what I love every season. It’s the most rewarding thing ever. I love what I do.
Photographed by Dan & Corina Lecca
Production Press & Casting by MAO Public Relations
Make up by Romero Jennings for MAC Cosmetics
Hair by Charlie Price for Scruples Hair Care
Sunglasses by Moscot
Footwear by Dansko
What Joseph Altuzarra does best (and I truly love him for this) is how he meticulously merges modesty and sophistication with unmistakable sex appeal. His Spring 2015 collection expands on these talents by doing just that, this time with traces of a promiscuous purity and an eerie je ne sais quoi.
Perhaps it was the pink gingham skirtsuit, but the collection felt truly wholesome as the first look came out onto the runway. But it was with a second glance this number revealed an inherent Altuzarra touch: an extreme slit worthy of the next Angelina Jolie thigh moment.
Designers Chris Peters and Shane Gabier certainly had their hands full this season, with a Spring 2015 collection filled with the distinct aesthetic we’ve come to love and expect from Creatures of the Wind; but this time they’ve introduced something new: a four-piece capsule collection of footwear, including some particularly noteworthy flatform sandals and modish heels.